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Chapter 08 — Toolhead: Stealthburner, Clockwork 2, Revo HF, Nitehawk-SB V2

One page per step

Read this chapter one step per page — big pictures, prev/next, and the same tick marks. This page is the whole chapter in one scroll.

Builds the complete toolhead on the bench — extruder, hotend, fans, LEDs, toolboard — and hangs it on the X carriage with every connector made, so Ch 10 only has to pull one umbilical through the chain.

What you're building in this chapter. The toolhead — the part that actually prints — in four named assemblies. Clockwork 2 is the extruder: a slim stepper turning two geared wheels that grip the filament between them and push it down. The tool cartridge is the removable block holding the Revo HF hotend — heatsink, HeaterCore and a nozzle you change by hand — plus the PTFE tube that feeds it. Stealthburner is the blue shroud that wraps the front, carrying two fans (one blowing through the hotend's heatsink to keep its cold side cold, one blowing cooling air at the print) and three addressable LEDs behind a diffuser. The Nitehawk-SB V2 is the toolboard: a small PCB riding on the toolhead that collects the heater, thermistor, fans, LEDs, probe and extruder motor onto a single USB-plus-24 V umbilical instead of a loom. All four are built on the bench and only then hung on the X carriage, with every toolhead-side connector already made.

Revali turning a hex key
Small fasteners, tight spaces. Build over a tray, because carpet eats M3 screws and denies it.

Time: 3.0–4.5 h hands-on, first build (survey §7.2).

Sessions: 10 × ~30 min — every minute figure in this chapter, here and in the Pause lines, is a first-build estimate.

Prerequisites:

  • Ch 05 — Gantry. X carriage halves (x_frame_V2TR_MGN12_left/right) built, heat-set inserts and M3 nuts already in them, carriage running the full X travel with no bind.
  • Ch 07 — A/B belts. Belts clamped into the carriage and tensioned. The carriage must be finished before anything hangs off it.
  • Print batches: B02 (the blue accent parts: [a]_stealthburner_main_body, [a]_guidler_a/b, [a]_latch, [a]_latch_shuttle, spare [a]_pcb_spacer), B06 (Stealthburner revo_voron printheads, Clockwork 2 black parts, cw2_captive_pcb_cover, the Klicky set), and B04 for the carriage. Batch ids from docs/voron-print-plan.md.
  • LDO-supplied printed parts, no print needed: CW2 Chain Anchor Tilted ×1, CW2 PCB Spacer ×1, Stealthburner LED Diffuser ×1 (clear PETG), LDO Nozzle Probe ×1, NH Adapter Mount ×1. src

Tools

  • Hex 1.5 / 2 / 2.5 mm (1.5 mm is supplied)
  • Temperature-controlled soldering iron + the supplied brass M3 insert tip
  • Flush cutters and a small flat file (5015 fan ears)
  • Multimeter (continuity and thermistor resistance)
  • Digital caliper (drive-gear position, PTFE stickout)
  • JST-PH2.0 crimp tool — only if you re-terminate the Revo pigtails yourself
  • Fine sandpaper (supplied ×2), for the drive shaft face and the fan ears
  • Small pliers, tweezers

Consumables: medium-strength threadlocker (Loctite 243), light grease for the BMG idler bearings, E0508 ferrules, zip ties 3×150 mm.

Printed parts

Parts arrive in the bins named below (see the bin map in print/README.md#bins); check the bin label's list before you start.

Looks like STL Bin Qty Colour
[a]_stealthburner_main_body.stl 08-SB 1 Blue
stealthburner_printhead_revo_voron_front.stl 08-SB 1 Black
stealthburner_printhead_revo_voron_rear_cw2.stl 08-SB 1 Black
[o]_stealthburner_LED_carrier.stl 08-SB 1 Black (opaque)
[o]_stealthburner_LED_diffuser_mask.stl 08-SB 1 Black (opaque)
— [c]_stealthburner_LED_diffuser.stl — 1 kit-supplied in clear PETG — not printed here
main_body.stl (Clockwork 2) 08-CW2 1 Black
motor_plate.stl (Clockwork 2) 08-CW2 1 Black
[a]_guidler_a.stl / [a]_guidler_b.stl 08-CW2 1 each Blue
[a]_latch.stl / [a]_latch_shuttle.stl 08-CW2 1 each Blue
[a]_pcb_spacer.stl (CW2) spare-alt 1 Supplied printed; you printed a 0.3 g spare
cw2_captive_pcb_cover.stl (Nitehawk-SB repo) 08-CW2 1 Black — replaces the stock cable_door
— CW2 Chain Anchor Tilted — 1 Supplied printed — do not print chain_anchor_2hole
— Klicky set (KlickyProbe_v2 ×2, Probe_Dock_v2.1, Probe_magnet_holder, Probe_pressfit_holder, KlickyProbe_AB_mount_v2 + holder, Mount_*, Dock_mount_fixed_v2) — 1 set Black — alternative path only, bag it (Step 08.54)

Hardware (chapter totals)

Fastener / part Qty Note
Heat-set insert, brass, M3×5×4 18 4 CW2 main body, 7 CW2 motor plate, 1 latch shuttle, 1 guidler arm, 3 chain anchor, 2 printhead rear — all (verify on bench), the SB manual highlights locations, not counts; the latch takes none (SB p.15, and its STL has a plain Ø3.4 bore)
M3×8 SHCS 10 1 motor, 1 cable bridge, 4 tool cartridge, 2 toolboard, 2 CW2→carriage
M3×16 SHCS 3 1 joins the guidler halves, 2 tool cartridge
M3×20 SHCS 1 chain anchor
M3×25 SHCS 6 2 motor plate, 1 tension arm, 1 latch, 2 SB mounting
M3×30 SHCS 1 1 motor (the probe's 2 are counted in Ch 07)
M3×50 SHCS 2 SB mounting (lower pair)
M3×6 FHCS 3 1 CW2 anti-squish stop (threadlocked), 2 part-cooling fan
M3×10 FHCS 2 fan adapter PCB to the 5015
M3×6 captive screw 1 LDO cable cover; kit ships 2
M3 washer 1 under the M3×8 motor bolt
Nozzle-probe hardware (M2×10 self-tapping ×2, M3 set screw ×1) 0 here the nozzle probe is built once, in Ch 09 Steps 09.27–09.29 — counted in that chapter's table
MR85 bearing 2 1 motor plate, 1 main body
Bondtech IDGA gear set 1 idler half built at Step 08.9, drive half at 08.15
Thumb Screw Kit (thumbscrew, spring ~12 mm × 6 mm OD × 1 mm wire, washer) 1
LDO-36STH20-1004AHG(VRN) pancake stepper, NEMA14 36 mm 1
E3D Revo Hotend (HF), Revo Voron form factor 1 60 W (LDO Edition HeaterCore), 300 °C max, Semitec 104NT-4-R025H42G
PTFE tube, 4 mm OD, 2 mm ID, 10 cm 1 tool cartridge, 11 mm stickout; cut stock
40×40×10 axial fan, 24 V 1 hotend fan
50×50×15 centrifugal fan, 24 V 1 part cooling
Nitehawk-SB V2 toolboard 1 STM32G0B1, integrated ADXL345
Stealthburner Fan Adapter PCB (SBurnerFanAdapter_V2.0) 1
Toolhead cable, USB and 24 V, XT30(2+2) 1 from the Toolhead PCB Cables bag
M3×10 SHCS — from the kit, no 350 BOM row 3 USB adapter stack (assembled here, mounted in Ch 09); LDO's printed-parts guide names the size, the 350 BOM lists no M3×10 SHCS (verify on bench)
Grounding cable, toolboard to extruder motor — from the LDO kit, no BOM row 1 LDO: new kits provide it; board end under a toolboard M3×8 at Step 08.43, motor end at Step 08.53
M3 screw, motor end of the grounding cable — from the LDO kit, no BOM row 1 length not published (verify on bench)
CW2 Chain Anchor Tilted 1 LDO-supplied printed; inserts at Step 08.6, fitted at 08.25
CW2 PCB Spacer 1 LDO-supplied printed; under the toolboard at Step 08.43
Stealthburner LED Diffuser 1 LDO-supplied, clear PETG; Step 08.35
USB Adapter PCB 1 stacked at Step 08.64, clipped to the rail in Ch 09
NH Adapter Mount 1 LDO-supplied printed base; Step 08.64

Read first

  • Do the insert pass before you assemble anything. A missed insert in the CW2 main body means stripping the extruder back to bare plastic (survey §5.2 W3). All 18 go in first, in Steps 08.3–08.7.
  • Five of the six Rev D+ deltas land in this chapter. PROBE / TH0 / XY-Endstop are JST-PH2.0, not XH2.5; the board-to-board fan header is keyed and gender-reversed; there is no ADXL mount; the USB-adapter cover is the V2 part; and there is an undocumented grounding scheme (survey §4.1).
  • The kit ships both probes and you build the inductive one. LDO's wiring guide, the Rev D+ Klipper config and survey §4.3 all assume the Omron inductive probe for QGL plus the LDO nozzle probe as the Z endstop. The Klicky parts are printed; bag them (Step 08.54).
  • Skip the ADXL mount entirely. The Nitehawk-SB has an ADXL345 on board. Do not fit the two extra inserts SB p.38 highlights, and do not print ADXL345_Mounts/*. src
  • The XY-endstop port on the toolboard is unused in a standard build, and the PROBE port's third pin is 24 V — Klicky must not have it populated. src
  • Bench-only work, good for a short session: Steps 08.3–08.7 (inserts), 08.9–08.11 (idler, guidler, thumbscrew), 08.12–08.14 (bearings), 08.27 (Revo) and 08.33–08.36 (leads, 5015 ears, LED chain) need no printer. Plate B07-P1 came off the Prusa months ago, so heat-set the inlet panel (Ch 09 Step 09.10) and the bed WAGO mount (Ch 09 Step 09.34) in the same iron session as 08.3–08.7 — those two steps then become a confirm.

Sources for this chapter

Video coverage (Steve Builds, pre-release LDO kit — differs from Rev D+): Part 5 @1:33:00 (+13m), Part 5 @1:45:23 (+8m), Part 5 @2:00:12 (+22m), Part 5 @2:17:50 (+30m), Part 5 @3:07:12 (+10m), Part 5 @3:17:06 (+22m), More Extras! @0:46:09 (+26m)

A — Part preparation and heat-set inserts

Step 08.1 — Sort the printed parts and confirm the hotend code

What you're looking at: Stealthburner is the toolhead: a shroud carrying two fans and three LEDs around a removable tool cartridge that holds the hotend. The two printhead halves are that cartridge; their moulded code says which hotend they fit. CW1 variants have the circled corner cut open.

Parts:

  • staged: all B02 and B06 toolhead prints
  • staged: the two revo_voron printhead halves

Do:

  1. Lay the parts out in build order; bag the Klicky set aside.
  2. Read the code on both printhead halves: it must say E-RV, E3D Revo Voron.
  3. Confirm the rear half is the _rear_cw2 variant, circled corner solid.

check Check

E-RV on both halves, and the circled corner of the rear half is closed. A different printhead folder means reprinting.

Helper: Reads the moulded code on each printhead half aloud and sorts the prints into build order.

tip Tip

the revo_voron folder is the settled choice for this kit; the SB printhead README maps "E3D Revo Voron → E-RV". src

Source: SB manual p.37

Step 08.2 — Snap the built-in supports out of the Stealthburner body

What you're looking at: The blue body is the Stealthburner shroud itself, carrying the LEDs, air ducts and both fans. It prints with sacrificial support inside. The webs across the fan cavities are the exception: they snap as a fan is pushed in and that snap retains it.

Parts:

  • [a]_stealthburner_main_body ×1

Do: Snap the three built-in supports SB p.45 highlights out of the blue main body, using flush cutters: pry and break, do not carve. Leave the fan-cavity supports alone; SB p.52 says those break when the fans go in.

Check

The LED pockets, diffuser channels and the two mounting bores are clear. The fan cavities still have their thin support webs in place.

Source: SB manual p.45

Step 08.3 — Inserts: Clockwork 2 main body

What you're looking at: Clockwork 2 is the extruder, the geared drive that grips filament and pushes it down. main_body is its larger half: drive gear, one bearing, filament path. A heat-set insert is a knurled brass sleeve melted into plastic so a screw threads into metal.

Parts:

  • main_body.stl ×1
  • heat-set insert, M3×5×4 ×4

Do:

  1. Fit the brass M3 tip and bring the iron to your ASA setting.
  2. Press in the three inserts SB p.11 highlights: foot, both side faces.
  3. Add the p.13 fourth, for the toolhead PCB. Press each one square.

Check

All four sit below the surface, none is cocked, and an M3 screw starts by hand in each. Count: 4 (verify on bench).

Caution

Rev D+ / LDO: the p.13 "OPTION: TOOLHEAD PCB" inserts are not optional here. The Nitehawk-SB V2 bolts to the CW2 sides with two M3×8 into these inserts. src

Tip

set the iron from the ASA figure on your Ch 00 Step 00.14 coupon, tongue bottoming flush. The p.13 insert sits beside a tall wall: approach from directly above.

Source: SB manual p.11 · SB manual p.12 · SB manual p.13

Step 08.4 — Inserts: Clockwork 2 motor plate

What you're looking at: The motor plate is the other half: the thin 8.2 mm plate with the large central bore that closes the extruder and carries the pancake stepper. Its inserts have to finish below the surface, because one standing proud stops the motor sitting flat.

Parts:

  • motor_plate.stl ×1
  • heat-set insert, M3×5×4 ×7

Do: SB p.12 draws six: three in the motor face, two in the inner face, one in the edge. Top and bottom motor-face inserts sit below the surface; mind the bottom cutout. SB p.13 adds the seventh, for the toolhead PCB.

Check

Lay a steel rule across each insert: no insert stands proud. Count: 7 (verify on bench).

Source: SB manual p.12 · SB manual p.13

Step 08.5 — Inserts: latch shuttle and guidler arm (flush, not below)

What you're looking at: The latch shuttle and the guidler arm are two of the extruder's blue parts: the arm swings the idler against the drive gear to grip filament, and the shuttle takes the thumbscrew. The latch hooks over the shuttle and pivots on a plain screw.

Parts:

  • [a]_latch_shuttle ×1
  • [a]_guidler_a ×1
  • heat-set inserts M3×5×4 ×2

Do: The latch shuttle takes one insert in its end face, the guidler arm one in its side boss. Both finish flush or only slightly below, never sunk. The latch takes none.

Check

A straightedge across the insert face rocks on the plastic, not on the brass. Count: 2, as p.15 draws them.

Source: SB manual p.15

Step 08.6 — Inserts: CW2 chain anchor (Igus 2-hole pattern)

What you're looking at: The chain anchor is the block on the back of the extruder that the toolhead drag chain's end plate bolts to, so the chain pulls on plastic and not on the toolboard's connectors. Two hole patterns exist; this kit's is the IGUS two-hole.

Parts:

  • staged: CW2 Chain Anchor Tilted ×1
  • heat-set insert, M3×5×4 ×3

Do: SB p.14 shows two anchor variants. Your kit ships Igus-pattern 2-hole drag chain, so use the two-hole row: two inserts along the top face plus one in the front tab that bolts to the extruder. Ignore the three-hole pattern.

Check

Offer a chain end plate to the anchor: its two screw holes line up over your two inserts. Count: 3 (verify on bench).

Caution

Rev D+ / LDO: do not print or use Clockwork2/chain_anchor_2hole.stl. LDO supplies the tilted anchor printed, and the print plan lists the Voron file as deliberately not printed. Always take _2hole, never _3hole, anywhere in this build. src

Source: SB manual p.14

Step 08.7 — Inserts: rear printhead half — and the two you skip

What you're looking at: The rear printhead half is the back of the tool cartridge, where the hotend sits. Two of the four holes SB p.38 highlights mount an ADXL345 accelerometer; the Nitehawk-SB V2 has one on board, so those two stay bare.

Parts:

  • stealthburner_printhead_revo_voron_rear_cw2 ×1
  • heat-set inserts M3×5×4 ×2

Do: SB p.38 highlights four holes on the face it shows. Fit only the upper two, just below the top edge, pressing in sideways, not down through the top face. The circled pair is the ADXL mount: leave it empty.

Check

Two inserts in the upper holes of that face; the top face and the circled pair are bare plastic. Count: 2 (verify on bench).

Caution

Rev D+ / LDO: the Nitehawk-SB V2 carries an ADXL345 on board with [resonance_tester] accel_per_hz: 100 already configured. There is no toolhead accelerometer to mount, now or later. src

Source: SB manual p.38

Step 08.8 — Confirm the X carriage is ready to receive a toolhead

What you're looking at: The X carriage is the pair of halves clamped to the MGN12 carriage and to both belts in Ch 05/07; the whole toolhead hangs off it. Nothing is fitted here. This is the check that every insert, nut and belt clamp is already in.

Parts:

  • reused: the X carriage on the gantry

Do: Verify the carriage before the toolhead exists. Manual p.129 and SB p.59 show the prep: the heat-set inserts and M3 nuts must already be fitted. Check both belt clamps are closed and the belts terminated.

check Check

Every carriage insert and nut present; carriage slides the full X travel by hand with no bind; both belts clamped.

Caution

Rev D+ / LDO: LDO Build Notes flag p.129–130 specifically — verify you have the Clockwork 2 carriage (x_frame_V2TR_MGN12_left/right), not an older MGN9 or CW1 variant, and follow the Stealthburner manual for the carriage detail. src

Source: Voron manual p.129 · Voron manual p.130 · SB manual p.59

pause Good stopping point · ~35 min since the last one

all 18 heat-set inserts are in and cool, the printed parts are sorted in build order, and the carriage is verified. Nothing is assembled yet. Leave the iron to cool on its stand; do not start the extruder with any insert still missing, because Steps 08.12 onwards bury them under a bearing and a gear train.

B — Clockwork 2 extruder

Step 08.9 — Build the BMG idler assembly and grease it

What you're looking at: A Bondtech dual-drive extruder grips filament between two geared wheels, not one wheel and a plain bearing. This is the second: the BMG idler gear, running on a bearing sleeve on its own shaft, toothed face towards the filament.

Parts:

  • Bondtech IDGA gear set ×1
  • consumable: light grease, Super Lube

Do: Slide the IDGA set's idler gear, shaft and bearing sleeve together. Wipe a thin film of Super Lube 21030 onto the bearing surfaces (verify on bench). Toothed face towards the filament path.

check Check

The idler spins freely with no gritty feel and no axial slop.

Source: SB manual p.17

Step 08.10 — Close the guidler arm

What you're looking at: The guidler is the swinging arm that carries the idler: two blue halves joined by a single M3×16 on p.16, with the idler assembly sliding into the joined arm on its own shaft on p.17.

Parts:

  • [a]_guidler_a ×1
  • [a]_guidler_b ×1
  • M3×16 SHCS ×1
  • reused: the greased idler assembly

Do: Join the two guidler halves with one M3×16 SHCS, p.16. Slide the greased idler assembly from 08.9 into the arm from the side, in the orientation p.17 circles: toothed face toward the filament path. Snug only.

check Check

The idler spins freely in the closed arm. The two halves meet with no gap.

Source: SB manual p.16

Step 08.11 — Fit the latch shuttle and the BMG thumbscrew assembly

What you're looking at: The thumbscrew, spring and washer are the extruder's grip adjustment; the latch shuttle is what they thread into. Winding the thumbscrew in compresses the spring and pushes the guidler arm, and so the idler, harder onto the filament.

Parts:

  • [a]_latch_shuttle ×1
  • Thumb Screw Kit ×1

Do: Seat the latch shuttle on top of the guidler's boss, hook facing the latch side, p.18 right. Slide the kit's spring then washer onto the thumbscrew, pass it through the boss and thread it into the shuttle's insert.

check Check

The shuttle is captive and draws against the spring by hand. The spring measures roughly 12 mm long, 6 mm OD, 1 mm wire.

tip Tip

a substitute spring of the wrong size changes the tension curve and prints badly; source the Bondtech part before continuing.

Source: SB manual p.18

Step 08.12 — Seat the first MR85 in the motor plate

What you're looking at: An MR85 is a small ball bearing, 5 mm bore and 8 mm outside; two of them carry the extruder's drive shaft, one in each printed half. Pressing on the inner ring drives load through the balls and dents the races.

Parts:

  • reused: the motor plate with its inserts
  • MR85 bearing ×1

Do: Press the MR85 fully into its plastic pocket, even pressure on the outer ring only. Never push on the inner ring. If it needs real force the part is over-extruded: check the print rather than hammering it.

check Check

The bearing face is flush with the pocket floor and spins freely.

Source: SB manual p.19

Step 08.13 — Check the drive shaft slides through both bearings

What you're looking at: The drive shaft carries the filament drive gear and the 50 T gear the motor's pinion turns. The bearings must be a slide fit on it, not a press fit, so the gear train can find its own centre.

Parts:

  • reused: the drive shaft from the IDGA set
  • reused: the MR85 in the motor plate
  • staged: MR85 bearing ×1
  • consumable: sandpaper, fine

Do: The bearings must slip on and off the shaft by hand so the gear can self-centre. Pressing a bearing onto the shaft destroys it. If either is tight, lightly sand the shaft: a few passes, then re-test.

check Check

Each bearing slides on and off with fingertip force and no rocking.

Helper: Slides each bearing on and off the shaft and says whether it catches anywhere.

Source: SB manual p.19

Step 08.14 — Seat the second MR85 in the main body and lock it

What you're looking at: The second MR85, this time in the main body, plus one countersunk screw above the gears. That screw is the anti-squish stop from SB p.27, threaded into a heat-set insert. Threadlocker keeps vibration from walking it out.

Parts:

  • reused: the CW2 main body with its inserts
  • MR85 bearing ×1
  • M3×6 FHCS ×1
  • consumable: medium-strength threadlocker

Do: Press the second MR85 into the main-body pocket, outer ring only. Then put a small drop of medium-strength threadlocker on the M3×6 FHCS and drive it into the insert above the gears, as p.20 shows.

check Check

Bearing flush and free; the flat head sits level in its countersink.

Source: SB manual p.20

Step 08.15 — Set the drive gear at its initial position and threadlock it

What you're looking at: The filament drive gear is the toothed wheel that pushes the filament; 15.6 mm is where its teeth line up with the filament path. Its set screw must land on the flat machined into the shaft, not the round, or it creeps.

Parts:

  • reused: the drive gear, 50T gear and shaft from the IDGA set
  • tool: caliper
  • consumable: medium-strength threadlocker

Do:

  1. Read SB p.21–24 first.
  2. Slide the drive gear on, set screw on the shaft's machined notch, to the 15.6 mm p.21 dimension.
  3. Apply threadlocker and tighten the set screw carefully; its head strips easily.

check Check

Caliper reads 15.6 mm at the dimensioned face, and the set screw is on the notch, not the round. Step 08.18 corrects it.

Source: SB manual p.21

Step 08.16 — Drop the drive assembly into the main body

What you're looking at: Shaft, drive gear and 50 T gear go into the main body as one assembly, the shaft picking up the bearing from 08.14. Everything turns on bearing drag alone; a gear touching plastic wears a groove and adds permanent load.

Parts:

  • reused: the drive assembly
  • reused: the CW2 main body

Do: Lower the shaft-and-gears assembly into the main body so the shaft enters the MR85 you fitted in 08.14 and the 50T gear sits in its chamber.

check Check

The shaft turns by hand with only bearing drag. No gear rubs the plastic.

Source: SB manual p.22

Step 08.17 — Close the extruder with the motor plate

What you're looking at: The motor plate closes the extruder and picks up the shaft's second bearing. The manual's warning is exact: these two M3×25 pull two printed parts together, and past the point where they actually meet you are bending plastic rather than tightening a joint.

Parts:

  • reused: the motor plate with its MR85
  • M3×25 SHCS ×2

Do: Bring the motor plate onto the main body so the shaft picks up its second MR85, then fit two M3×25 SHCS. Tighten until the parts meet, then stop. Tightened past that, the plastic bends and cracks.

check Check

No visible gap at the parting line and no stress whitening at either bolt boss. The shaft still turns freely.

Source: SB manual p.23

Step 08.18 — Verify drive-gear alignment with real filament

What you're looking at: A live check with real filament, because the 15.6 mm figure is only a starting point. The filament must land on the drive gear's toothed band, not on the smooth shoulder either side; a gear a millimetre out grips only intermittently.

Parts:

  • consumable: 1.75 mm filament, a 100 mm offcut

Do:

  1. Push filament down the path: it must land on the gear's toothed section, not the shoulder.
  2. If off, loosen the set screw, nudge the gear, re-check, re-tighten.
  3. Sand the shaft end face if it stands proud.

check Check

Filament centres on the gear teeth; the shaft end sits at or below the plastic surface when fully seated.

Helper: Shines a torch down the filament path and says whether the filament meets the teeth.

Source: SB manual p.24

pause Good stopping point · ~30 min since the last one

the drive train is closed between the main body and the motor plate, and threadlocker is curing on the drive-gear set screw and on the M3×6 FHCS. Do not re-open the set screw or work the drive gear against a tight spot while the threadlocker sets; the motor is not on yet, so nothing is under load.

Step 08.19 — Hang the tension arm — and leave it loose

What you're looking at: The tension arm's M3×25 is a hinge pin, not a fastener. Tightened, the arm cannot swing and the extruder cannot tension filament at all; left loose, the arm swings and the spring does the work it was fitted for.

Parts:

  • reused: the guidler assembly
  • M3×25 SHCS ×1

Do: Locate the guidler/tension arm on its pivot and pass one M3×25 SHCS through. Do not tighten it. This bolt is a hinge pin; torquing it locks the arm and kills filament tensioning.

check Check

The arm swings through its full travel under finger pressure and falls back under spring load.

Source: SB manual p.25

Step 08.20 — Fit the latch

What you're looking at: The latch is the blue lever that hooks over the latch shuttle from 08.11 to hold the guidler arm closed against spring pressure, so filament can be loaded one-handed. It also has to pivot, so it too is snug rather than tight.

Parts:

  • [a]_latch ×1
  • M3×25 SHCS ×1

Do: Drop the latch over its post and secure with one M3×25 SHCS. Snug: the latch must still pivot.

check Check

The latch swings over and hooks the shuttle, holding the guidler closed, and releases cleanly when lifted.

Source: SB manual p.26 · Video: Part 5 @1:48:10 (differs: builds Afterburner + Clockwork 1; this kit is Stealthburner + Clockwork 2 + Revo HF)

Step 08.21 — Set the tension and the anti-squish stop

What you're looking at: Two independent adjustments meet here. The thumbscrew sets how hard the idler presses; the CW2 anti-squish stop sets the minimum gap, so the gears can never be driven into each other. Shallow tooth marks are correct, a flattened track is not.

Parts:

  • reused: the assembled extruder
  • consumable: 1.75 mm filament offcut

Do: Clockwise on the thumbscrew adds grip; SB p.27 warns that too much tension causes print issues, so start light. Then set the anti-squish screw circled on p.27 so the gears mesh without binding (verify on bench).

check Check

With filament loaded, the arm closes without the gears grinding against each other, and the filament shows shallow tooth marks rather than a flattened track.

Source: SB manual p.27

Step 08.22 — Fit the pancake stepper, first bolt

What you're looking at: The pancake stepper is a slim NEMA14 motor; its pinion drives the 50 T gear, and that reduction is what gives the extruder its pushing force. Both its bolts stay loose to start with, because the motor's position in its slots is the gear-mesh adjustment.

Parts:

  • LDO-36STH20-1004AHG(VRN) NEMA14 pancake stepper ×1
  • M3×30 SHCS ×1

Do: Present the stepper to the motor plate, pinion entering the 50T gear chamber, cable exiting where the CW2 body routes it. Start the M3×30 SHCS in the upper mounting position and leave it loose.

check Check

The motor sits flat against the plate with the pinion engaged, not bottomed.

Source: SB manual p.28

Step 08.23 — Fit the second motor bolt through the front access hole

What you're looking at: The second motor bolt is reached from the front of the extruder through an access hole. This is the bolt that gets forgotten, and a motor held by one bolt slowly rotates in its slots under load until the mesh is gone.

Parts:

  • M3×8 SHCS ×1
  • M3 washer ×1

Do: Put the washer on the M3×8 SHCS and drive it into the second motor position. It is reached from the front of the extruder through the access hole. Leave this one loose too.

check Check

Both motor bolts started, both still finger-loose, and the motor can be nudged in its slots.

Source: SB manual p.29

Step 08.24 — Set the gear mesh, then tighten both motor bolts

What you're looking at: Gear mesh is how deeply the pinion and the 50 T teeth overlap. Too shallow and the teeth skip under load; preloaded and the drivetrain binds and whines. You want full tooth overlap with a faint backlash, then the motor locked there.

Parts:

  • reused: the extruder assembly

Do: Slide the motor until the pinion and the 50T teeth fully overlap with a very small gap between the tooth faces. Turn the drive shaft by hand as you adjust. Then tighten the M3×30 first, the M3×8 second.

check Check

Rotating the drive gear by hand gives a barely perceptible backlash and no tight spot anywhere through a full turn. Both bolts tight.

Source: SB manual p.30 · Video: Part 5 @1:41:54 (differs: builds Afterburner + Clockwork 1; this kit is Stealthburner + Clockwork 2 + Revo HF)

Step 08.25 — Fit the LDO tilted chain anchor

What you're looking at: The chain anchor is the terminus of the toolhead's cable run: the umbilical is tied to it, so every pull from the moving drag chain lands on this printed block rather than on the toolboard's connectors.

Parts:

  • CW2 Chain Anchor Tilted ×1
  • M3×20 SHCS ×1

Do: Sit the anchor onto the rear of the CW2 so its chain face points back along the X extrusion, and fix it with one M3×20 SHCS.

check Check

The anchor is solid on the body and its two chain holes face rearwards and slightly up.

Source: SB manual p.31

Step 08.26 — Fit the cable-bridge bolt

What you're looking at: The cable-bridge bolt is the anchor's second fixing. On one bolt the anchor can twist; on two the cable path is rigid, which is what a drag chain tugging at it needs.

Parts:

  • M3×8 SHCS ×1

Do: Drive the M3×8 SHCS into the cable-bridge position on the side of the extruder: the second fixing that ties the anchor and the cable path to the body.

check Check

The anchor no longer twists when you push it sideways.

Source: SB manual p.32

pause Good stopping point · ~25 min since the last one

Clockwork 2 is a complete, self-supporting sub-assembly: mesh set, both motor bolts tight, chain anchor and cable bridge fitted. The tension arm's M3×25 is deliberately loose and is a hinge pin — do not torque it to tidy the assembly up before you walk away.

C — Tool cartridge and E3D Revo HF

Step 08.27 — Assemble the Revo HF hotend

What you're looking at: The Revo HF is E3D's quick-change hotend in three pieces: the heatsink, the finned top the filament enters; the HeaterCore, heater and thermistor in one module; and a nozzle that screws in by hand. A retaining spring holds the HeaterCore captive.

Parts:

  • staged: Revo Voron heatsink
  • staged: Revo retaining spring
  • staged: Revo HeaterCore
  • staged: Revo nozzle

Do:

  1. Fit the spring into the groove on the heatsink's bottom and push the HeaterCore on.
  2. Screw the nozzle in finger-tight only, no tools.
  3. Aim the cables by rotating the HeaterCore anti-clockwise only; clockwise disengages the spring.

check Check

Nozzle fully home and hand-tight. HeaterCore captive under spring load. Cables pointing to the rear.

Source: SB manual p.39 · E3D Revo Voron support

Step 08.28 — Seat the hotend in the rear printhead half

What you're looking at: The rear printhead half is the pocket the hotend lives in. The heatsink's groove locates on a moulded rib that stops the hotend rotating when you hand-tighten the nozzle. SB p.40 draws the hotend in this half: it goes in before the wires are routed.

Parts:

  • reused: the rear printhead half with its inserts
  • E3D Revo HF hotend, assembled ×1

Do: Drop the Revo Voron heatsink into the rear printhead half so the heatsink's groove locates on the printed rib, with the HeaterCore's wires pointing up the side p.40 draws them on. Do not bend anything yet.

check Check

The heatsink cannot rotate in the pocket, and the nozzle protrudes centrally.

Source: SB manual p.39 · SB manual p.40

Step 08.29 — Route the wires and bend the strain relief so the nozzle can seat fully

What you're looking at: The strain relief is the stainless sleeve where the HeaterCore's wires leave the module. With it in the way the nozzle cannot go the last part-turn home, and a nozzle not fully seated leaks molten plastic into the printhead on the first hot print.

Parts:

  • reused: the Revo in the rear half

Do:

  1. Route the hotend wires up the side of the rear half as SB p.40 shows.
  2. Bend the HeaterCore's stainless strain relief clear of the printed part, holding the HeaterCore firmly so no load goes on the nozzle.

check Check

The relief clears its wall, the nozzle still turns the last part-turn home by hand, and the wires exit rearwards clear of the nozzle.

Source: SB manual p.40

Step 08.30 — Close the tool cartridge

What you're looking at: Front half on, two bolts, and the tool cartridge now exists as an object: hotend, both printhead halves and, next, the PTFE, as one unit that later slides up into the toolhead. Any movement here is movement of the nozzle.

Parts:

  • stealthburner_printhead_revo_voron_front ×1
  • M3×16 SHCS ×2

Do: Bring the front half onto the rear half around the hotend and fix with two M3×16 SHCS.

check Check

The two halves close with no gap and the hotend has zero play in any direction.

Source: SB manual p.41

Step 08.31 — Fit the four tool-cartridge mounting bolts

What you're looking at: These four M3×8 are studs, not fasteners. Their heads engage keyholes in the Clockwork 2 when the cartridge slides up into place at Step 08.61, so all four must stand at exactly the same height or the cartridge hangs crooked.

Parts:

  • M3×8 SHCS ×4

Do: Drive four M3×8 SHCS into the top face of the tool cartridge until each head seats on the plastic. Stop there; do not overtighten.

check Check

Four heads seated, all at the same height.

Helper: Checks that the four bolt heads stand at the same height and points at any that sits high.

Source: SB manual p.42

Step 08.32 — Cut and fit the PTFE to 11 mm stickout

What you're looking at: The PTFE tube is the low-friction liner that guides filament from the extruder's outlet down into the hotend. 11 mm of stickout is the Clockwork 2 figure: the length that closes the gap between the two, so the filament cannot buckle under extrusion pressure.

Parts:

  • consumable: PTFE tube, 4 mm OD, 2 mm ID, 10 cm
  • tool: caliper
  • tool: flush cutters

Do: Push the PTFE down into the tool cartridge until it bottoms on the heatsink, then cut it so exactly 11 mm stands above the printed part. Cut square: a diagonal cut leaves a filament-catching step.

Check

Caliper across the stickout reads 11 mm. Push 1.75 mm filament through: it enters the hotend with no catch.

Source: SB manual p.43 · Video: Part 5 @2:06:01 (differs: builds Afterburner + Clockwork 1; this kit is Stealthburner + Clockwork 2 + Revo HF)

Good stopping point · ~20 min since the last one

the tool cartridge is closed around the Revo, the four M3×8 studs are in, and the PTFE is cut to 11 mm. Bag it nozzle-up. Do not put a tool on the nozzle and do not stand the cartridge on its nozzle; both undo the hand-tight seat you just set.

Step 08.33 — Terminate the hotend leads for the Nitehawk V2

What you're looking at: The Nitehawk-SB V2 is the toolboard: a PCB on the toolhead collecting heater, thermistor, fans, LEDs, probe and motor onto one USB-plus-24 V umbilical. HE0 is the heater screw terminal, TH0 the 2-pin JST-PH2.0 socket. A ferrule stops stranded wire splaying in a screw terminal.

Parts:

  • reused: the Revo heater and thermistor leads
  • consumable: E0508 ferrule ×2, only if re-terminating
  • consumable: JST-PH2.0 2-pin housing and crimps, only if re-terminating

Do:

  1. Open the Toolhead PCB Cables bag. If LDO's cables mate the Revo's Molex Micro-Fit 3.0 2-pin, use them as-is.
  2. Otherwise cut the Revo pigtails and fit E0508 ferrules for HE0, a JST-PH2.0 2-pin housing for TH0. (verify on bench — depends on what LDO packed for the Revo option)

Check

Heater leads end in two crimped E0508 ferrules with no stray strands. Thermistor lead ends in a 2-pin PH2.0 housing that drops into TH0 without force.

Caution

Rev D+ / LDO: the Rev D wiring guide says "the connector type to use is JST-XH2.5 two pin" for the thermistor. On the V2 board TH0, PROBE and the XY endstop are JST-PH2.0. An XH2.5 housing will not fit, and the PH2.0 body is easy to force into the wrong header — check the silkscreen before every insertion. src

Source: Nitehawk-SB V2 pinout

Step 08.34 — Prepare the 5015 part-cooling blower

What you're looking at: The 5015 is the part-cooling blower: a centrifugal fan that throws air sideways out of a nozzle rather than straight through, which lets it feed the printhead's narrow ducts. Its moulded mounting ears belong to a different machine; Stealthburner grips the bare housing.

Parts:

  • staged: 50×50×15 centrifugal fan, 24 V ×1
  • tool: flush cutters
  • tool: small flat file

Do: Remove the front cover of the 5015. Clip the stock mounting ears off flush and file the remains until the housing sides are flat. A trimming jig STL ships in the Stealthburner release archive, not in the repo's STLs/ tree.

Check

No ear stands proud of the housing wall. The fan drops into the SB main body pocket without spreading the printed walls.

Source: SB manual p.55 · Video: Part 6 @0:20:10

D — Stealthburner body: LEDs and fans

Step 08.35 — Build the logo LED into its carrier

What you're looking at: The logo LED and its three-part sandwich, from the outside in: the opaque mask with three windows is the face you see; the clear PETG diffuser behind it pokes three prongs forward through those windows; the carrier holds the LED behind both.

Parts:

  • [o]_stealthburner_LED_carrier ×1
  • [o]_stealthburner_LED_diffuser_mask ×1
  • Stealthburner LED Diffuser, clear PETG ×1
  • logo LED, chain index 1 ×1 — from the LDO kit, no BOM row

Do:

  1. Seat the logo LED in the carrier, wires exiting upwards.
  2. Stack from the outside in: opaque mask, then diffuser with its prongs forward and flat base behind, then the LED carrier. SB p.47 right draws the result.

check Check

Three translucent bars sit flush in the black face, the diffuser's flat base behind the mask and not in front. Nothing rattles.

Source: SB manual p.47

Step 08.36 — Wire the three-LED chain

What you're looking at: These are addressable LEDs wired as a chain: data goes in to the first and out to the next, so each LED's position is its address. Logo is index 1, right toolhead LED 2, left 3, the order chain_count: 3 and every LED macro assume.

Parts:

  • reused: the logo LED in its carrier
  • toolhead LED, chain index 2 and 3 ×2 — from the LDO kit, no BOM row
  • consumable: 3-core 0.16 mm² wire, AWG26–30, 320 mm, only if not pre-soldered

Do:

  1. Check the toolhead cable bag: many Rev D kits ship this chain pre-soldered.
  2. Otherwise solder OUT to IN: 120 mm to logo 1, 100 mm to right 2, 100 mm to left 3. Wires exit the same way.

Check

Continuity on each data wire, connector to logo DIN, then each DOUT to the next DIN; 5 V and GND common; no 5 V–GND short.

Caution

Rev D+ / LDO: the config declares chain_count: 3 and color_order: GRBW. A colour-order mismatch shows up as wrong colours, never as a failure — if the LEDs light in the wrong colours in Ch 13, change color_order, do not rewire. src

Source: SB manual p.46

Good stopping point · ~25 min since the last one

the hotend leads are terminated, the 5015 ears are trimmed and filed, and the three-LED chain is soldered and continuity-checked. Nothing is in the Stealthburner body yet. Iron off and cool. Do not coil the chain tightly: the 100 and 120 mm pigtails are cut to fit the printed channels and kinking them loses that length.

Step 08.37 — Seat the two toolhead LEDs

What you're looking at: The two toolhead LEDs sit in the top corners of the body and light the print area from above. SB p.48 names them from behind: index 2 is the toolhead's own right, the pocket on your left when you face the printer.

Parts:

  • reused: the two toolhead LEDs on their chain
  • reused: the Stealthburner main body

Do: Push each toolhead LED into its pocket in the top corners of the main body, from the outside inwards, wires trailing outboard. p.48 is drawn from behind: its RIGHT pocket is index 2, its LEFT pocket index 3.

check Check

Both LEDs bottom in their pockets and face down into the print area.

Source: SB manual p.48

Step 08.38 — Insert the LED diffusers and push them forward

What you're looking at: The diffusers are the translucent panels you stacked at 08.35: the mask-and-diffuser sandwich and the LED carrier, which the SB manual feeds into the body in two pieces. Pushed fully forward they sit flush with the front; left back, they leave a shadow line.

Parts:

  • reused: the logo LED stack, mask with diffuser and the LED carrier

Do: Drop the mask-and-diffuser into the top slot and push it towards the front until it fills the front window, p.49. Drop the carrier with the LED in behind it, p.50.

check Check

Diffuser faces sit flush with the front of the body; no gap behind them.

Source: SB manual p.49 · SB manual p.50 · Video: More Extras! @1:06:03 (differs: builds Afterburner + Clockwork 1; this kit is Stealthburner + Clockwork 2 + Revo HF)

Step 08.39 — Route the LED wires out of the body

What you're looking at: Every wire in the body is routed to leave on one side, so the whole harness can be taken to the fan adapter as a single bundle. A wire crossing a fan opening is a wire an impeller will eventually find.

Parts:

  • reused: the LED chain in the body

Do: Lay the LED wires into the moulded channels so the whole harness exits on the right side of the body. Keep them out of the fan cavities.

check Check

With the body face-down, no wire crosses either fan opening and the harness leaves as a single bundle on the right.

Source: SB manual p.51

Step 08.40 — Clip in the hotend fan, correct way round

What you're looking at: The 4010 axial fan is the hotend fan: it blows through the heatsink's fins to keep the cold side of the hotend cold. Direction is absolute: the moulded arrow must point into the heatsink. As it seats, the fan snaps the body's support webs.

Parts:

  • 40×40×10 axial fan, 24 V ×1

Do: Rotate the fan so its wires exit at the top and its airflow pushes inwards, into the heatsink. Confirm against the moulded arrow on the frame. Clip it in at a slight angle; it snaps the body's support webs.

check Check

Wires at top, airflow arrow pointing into the body. Spin the impeller with a finger: free, no rub.

Helper: Finds the airflow arrow on the fan frame and checks that it points into the body.

Source: SB manual p.53

Step 08.41 — Route the hotend fan wires

What you're looking at: The fan wires join the LED harness in the same right-hand channel: one bundle, one exit, and nothing trapped under the fan frame.

Parts:

  • reused: the hotend fan's leads

Do: Lay the fan wires into their channel so they exit on the right side, alongside the LED harness.

check Check

All wire exits are on one side; nothing is pinched under the fan frame.

Source: SB manual p.54

Step 08.42 — Fit the part-cooling blower

What you're looking at: The trimmed 5015 goes in the upper cavity, above the hotend fan. Which fan is which matters: the config drives them on different pins, and Ch 13's fan verification tests whether top and bottom got swapped.

Parts:

  • 50×50×15 centrifugal fan, trimmed ×1
  • M3×6 FHCS ×2

Do: Drop the trimmed blower into the upper cavity, above the hotend fan, outlet feeding the ducts, and fix it with two M3×6 FHCS. Blower wires exit right. Part cooling is the top fan, the hotend fan the bottom.

check Check

The blower is square in the upper cavity with the 4010 below it, the impeller spins freely, and the outlet aims down through the duct.

Source: SB manual p.56

pause Good stopping point · ~20 min since the last one

the Stealthburner body is fully populated: three LEDs seated, diffusers pushed forward, both fans in, every wire exiting on the right. Rest it face-down on a soft cloth. Do not put weight on the diffuser faces or spin the impellers with anything but a finger.

E — Nitehawk-SB V2 and the fan adapter

Step 08.43 — Bolt the Nitehawk-SB V2 to the Clockwork 2

What you're looking at: The Nitehawk-SB V2 toolboard is the larger board in this photo; the triangular board beside it is the Stealthburner Fan Adapter, fitted next. The two mate through a keyed board-to-board header when the blue body closes. The printed spacer sets the standoff.

Parts:

  • Nitehawk-SB V2 ×1
  • CW2 PCB Spacer ×1 (supplied printed)
  • M3×8 SHCS ×2

Do:

  1. Sit the PCB spacer against the CW2 side, the toolboard on top, two M3×8 SHCS.
  2. Trap the supplied ground cable's ring lug under the lower M3×8 head, at the bottom corner nearest the motor (verify on bench — the photo, not LDO's prose, is the source).

check Check

The board sits parallel on its spacer, the 10-pin header faces forward, and the ground lug is under a screw head, tail free.

tip Tip

handle the board by its edges. A screw that will not start means a cocked insert. The ground wire's motor end waits for Step 08.53.

Source: LDO wiring guide § Wiring the Toolhead PCB

Step 08.44 — Mount the fan adapter PCB on the back of the 5015

What you're looking at: The fan adapter is the PCB that collects both fans and the LED chain on the body side and hands them to the toolboard through a single board-to-board header, so the blue body lifts off with three plugs still made up.

Parts:

  • Stealthburner Fan Adapter PCB (SBurnerFanAdapter_V2.0) ×1
  • M3×10 FHCS ×2

Do: Mount the adapter to the rear of the Stealthburner main body, onto the back of the 5015 fan, with two M3×10 FHCS through its end holes. Whether these share or replace the M3×6 FHCS from 08.42 is undrawn (verify on bench; no LDO photo of the mounted adapter has been found).

check Check

Board flat against the fan; its P1 header points at the toolboard's header when the body is offered up.

Source: SB V2 fan adapter pinout

Step 08.45 — Check the fan-voltage solder jumpers before anything is powered

What you're looking at: The two three-pad groups are solder jumpers: each chooses 24 V or 5 V for its fan port, by which outer pad joins the middle. From the factory that join is a hair-thin PCB trace, not a solder blob. Both fans are 24 V.

Parts:

  • reused: the fan adapter PCB
  • tool: magnifier
  • tool: multimeter

Do: Confirm both selectors, silkscreened 24V V_HEF 5V and 24V V_PCF 5V, are on the 24 V side. Both your fans are 24 V per the Rev D 350 BOM. LDO's 5 V conversion cuts the trace and solders a bridge: do neither. Cut nothing.

check Check

By meter: both selectors continuous from the middle pad to 24V, open to 5V. The factory trace is too thin to see. (verify on bench)

Helper: Reads the meter aloud at each selector while you hold the probes.

tip Tip

the factory default is 24 V on both selectors.

Source: SB V2 fan adapter pinout

Step 08.46 — Plug the fans and the LED chain into the adapter

What you're looking at: Three JST-PH2.0 3-pin plugs, one per port; the middle pin on each fan port is the tacho line, reporting real RPM to Klipper. The classic error is swapping P2 and P4: both fans run, but the machine cools the hotend instead of the print.

Parts:

  • reused: the hotend fan, 5015 and LED chain leads

Do: Three JST-PH2.0 3-pin plugs, one per port:

Port What plugs in Pinout, silkscreen order
P2 4010 axial hotend fan + / A1 (tacho) / −
P3 Neopixel LED chain 5V / GND / RGB
P4 5015 part cooling blower − / A2 (tacho) / +

If you ever re-crimp a fan lead, take the polarity from the silkscreen next to the port, not from the fan's wire colours.

check Check

All three plugs fully home, latch engaged, no wire in tension. P2 to the axial, P4 to the blower.

Conflict

LDO's graphic nhsbv2_pcb_pinout.jpg labels the Fan/RGB header PA15 → HEF and PD0 → PCF; the adapter silkscreen and the Rev D+ Klipper config say the opposite, [fan] on nhk:PA15 tacho nhk:PD2, [heater_fan hotend_fan] on nhk:PD0 tacho nhk:PD1. Two of three agree, so wire by port function, P2 axial and P4 blower. If Ch 13's Verify Fans spins the wrong fan, swap the pin: values in printer.cfg. Do not re-crimp connectors. src

Source: SB V2 fan adapter pinout

pause Good stopping point · ~20 min since the last one

the Nitehawk-SB V2 and the fan adapter are mounted, both fan-voltage selectors are verified at 24 V, and the three PH2.0 fan and LED plugs are in. Do not mate the board-to-board header yet — that happens with the Stealthburner body at Step 08.62 — and do not cut or bridge a voltage-selector pad.

Step 08.47 — Hotend heater into the screw terminal

What you're looking at: HE0 is the heater output, the highest-current thing on this board, hence a screw terminal and not a plug. A cartridge heater is a plain resistor, so polarity is irrelevant; what matters is that no stray strand escapes the ferrule and bridges the terminals.

Parts:

  • reused: the Revo heater leads
  • tool: 2.5 mm slot-head screwdriver

Do: Land the two ferruled heater leads in the HE0 screw terminal. Polarity does not matter on a resistive heater. Tighten firmly with the 2.5 mm slot-head driver and tug-test each lead.

check Check

No copper visible outside the ferrule; neither lead pulls out; the two terminals cannot touch.

Source: Nitehawk-SB V2 pinout

Step 08.48 — Hotend thermistor into TH0

What you're looking at: TH0 reads the hotend thermistor, an NTC resistor whose resistance falls as it heats. Klipper computes temperature from that resistance, so an open lead looks like a hotend that never warms and a shorted one like a hotend on fire.

Parts:

  • reused: the Revo thermistor lead
  • tool: multimeter

Do:

  1. Measure across the thermistor pigtail: a Semitec 104NT-4-R025H42G reads 100 kΩ at 25 °C. Near 0 Ω or open is a broken lead.
  2. Plug it into TH0, the 2-pin JST-PH2.0 left of the heater terminal, signal PB12.

check Check

Housing fully seated, and the ~100 kΩ reading was taken before it went in. (verify on bench)

Helper: Reads the meter aloud and says whether it shows about 100 kΩ.

Source: Nitehawk-SB V2 pinout

Step 08.49 — Extruder motor into E MOTOR

What you're looking at: E MOTOR is the only JST-XH2.5 connector left on this board, and it is on the reverse side. A stepper is a pair of coils: plugging or unplugging one on a live board dumps their stored energy straight back into the driver and kills it.

Parts:

  • reused: the pancake stepper lead

Do: The E MOTOR port is a JST-XH2.5 4-pin on the reverse side of the board, pin order B2 B1 A1 A2. Plug the stepper in. This one connector did not change to PH2.0.

check Check

Plug fully home in the rear header. Never plug or unplug a stepper with the printer powered: back-EMF kills drivers.

Source: Nitehawk-SB V2 pinout

Step 08.50 — Probe into PROBE

What you're looking at: PROBE is the 3-pin port for the inductive probe, the sensor the machine uses for QGL and the bed mesh. Its third pin carries a live 24 V, so any probe expecting 5 V there must have that pin left out of the housing.

Parts:

  • reused: the inductive probe's pre-terminated lead

Do: Plug the probe into PROBE: JST-PH2.0 3-pin, GND / SIG (PC15) / 24V. The kit's Z probe ships in the toolhead cable bag already terminated for this port.

check Check

Plug seated, and you can trace GND / SIG / 24V against the silkscreen.

Caution

Rev D+ / LDO: the third pin is a live 24 V feed. If you ever fit a Klicky here, its 24 V pin must be left unpopulated; if you fit a TAP-style board, confirm it is 24 V-tolerant first. src

Source: Nitehawk-SB V2 pinout

Step 08.51 — Chamber thermistor into CT, then close the LDO cable cover

What you're looking at: CT takes the chamber thermistor, which measures the air inside the enclosure rather than any heater. LDO's cover closes the board and holds that thermistor's bead in the chamber air away from the hotend, so it reads the chamber and not the toolhead's waste heat.

Parts:

  • cw2_captive_pcb_cover.stl ×1
  • M3×6 captive screw ×1
  • chamber thermistor, pre-terminated ×1 — from the LDO kit, no BOM row

Do: Plug the external chamber thermistor into CT, JST-PH2.0 2-pin, signal PB2. Fit LDO's cw2_captive_pcb_cover over the board and close it with the M3×6 captive screw. Open the filament latch if the bolt pocket is obscured.

check Check

Cover closed with the captive screw, thermistor bead sitting in its external holder and not touching plastic or the hotend.

Caution

Rev D+ / LDO: this cover replaces the stock Clockwork2/cable_door.stl from SB p.33–34. That part is on the "deliberately not printed" list for this build. src

Source: Nitehawk-SB V2 pinout · Video: Part 5 @3:41:55 (differs: no toolboard — loom to the mainboard; this kit runs a Nitehawk-SB V2 on one USB+24 V umbilical)

Step 08.52 — Account for the ports you are not using

What you're looking at: XY ENDSTOP and I2C stay empty. The USB expansion header and the BOOT0 / RESET buttons must stay reachable: the buttons flash firmware in Ch 12, and that spare USB port is the "+" in Rev D**+**. The harness map shows every port and pin.

Parts: none.

Do: Walk the board once and confirm what stays empty:

Port Type Status in this build
XY ENDSTOP JST-PH2.0 4P — GND / X (PB0) / Y (PB1) / 5V Unused. The XY endstop PCB wires to the Leviathan, not the toolhead
I2C JST-PH2.0 4P — SCL (PB3) / SDA (PB4) / 3V3 / GND Unused
USB expansion JST-ZH1.5 5P — GND / GND / D+ / D− / 5V Unused now. This is the "+" in Rev D+; leave it physically reachable
BOOT / RESET buttons tactile, beside the USB header Leave clear — Ch 12 flashing may need them

check Check

Nothing plugged into XY ENDSTOP or I2C. The USB expansion header and both buttons are not buried under a cable bundle.

Helper: Reads each port name from the table aloud while you find it on the board.

Caution

Rev D+ / LDO: leave enough umbilical slack that the secondary USB port stays reachable without pulling the toolhead off. A future eddy-current probe or nozzle camera plugs in there, and that port is the entire reason this kit is "Rev D+". src

Source: Nitehawk-SB V2 pinout

Step 08.53 — Land the ground wire's motor end on the extruder motor

What you're looking at: One short ring-lugged wire, and the reason it exists is static. LDO's ESD scheme makes one continuous path: extruder motor body, toolboard ground, umbilical, USB adapter, frame, earth. Its board end went under a toolboard screw at 08.43. src

Parts:

  • grounding cable, toolboard to extruder motor ×1 — from the LDO kit, no BOM row
  • M3 screw, motor end of the grounding cable ×1 — from the LDO kit, no BOM row

Do:

  1. Land the motor-end ring lug on the short supplied screw, length (verify on bench), in a free face hole of the NEMA14.
  2. LDO's photo uses the lower one, nearest the chain anchor; bend the lug clear of it. Snug only.

check Check

Continuity from the toolboard GND pad to the motor can; both lugs are under a screw head; the wire cannot reach any moving part.

Boundary: this step is the source of record for the ESD grounding scheme. Ch 10 Step 10.58 fits the frame-side leg and re-checks the path; if LDO changes the procedure, correct it here first and make Ch 10 point back.

Caution

Rev D+ / LDO: use the supplied grounding cable — LDO warns that larger ring-lug connectors can short the PCB. If your kit did not include the grounding cables, stop and ask in #ldo_motors before improvising a ground connection; this scheme was undocumented prose until LDO's board doc was updated 2026-07-10 (survey §4.1 ⑤).

Source: grounding_scheme.jpg · toolboard_ground_routing.jpg

pause Good stopping point · ~25 min since the last one

every toolboard-side connector is made, the LDO cable cover is closed on its captive screw, and the ground wire runs from the toolboard to the motor body. Nothing is powered and nothing is on the carriage. Do not plug the umbilical's far end into anything and do not power the printer to "just check" — Checkpoint 08 and Ch 13 do that, in that order.

F — Probe

Step 08.54 — Confirm the probe decision and bag the Klicky set

(no image — decision step; the probe itself was fitted in Ch 07 Steps 07.34–07.37)

What you're looking at: Klicky is a magnetically docked microswitch probe: the toolhead picks it up from a dock, probes with it, and puts it back. This build uses the inductive probe instead, fitted in Ch 07, with Z zero from the nozzle probe built in Ch 09.

Parts: none.

Do:

  1. Build nothing here. The kit ships both probes, and Ch 07 already fitted the inductive one.
  2. Bag the Klicky parts from B06-P1, unbuilt. Z height comes from the LDO nozzle probe, not from either.

check Check

The inductive probe is on the carriage from Ch 07 and the Klicky bag is closed.

Caution

Rev D+ / LDO: three sources agree on the inductive probe. LDO's wiring guide wires it to PROBE as the default; the Rev D+ Klipper config's [probe] block is written for it (pin: nhk:PC15, x_offset: 0, y_offset: 25.0, "not used for Z height, only Quad Gantry Leveling") with no Klicky macros; and it ships pre-terminated while Klicky needs a cable you make. src

Alternative — Klicky probe (do not build now)

Klicky is a supported mod, not a different wiring plan: it uses the same PROBE port with the 24 V pin left unpopulated, and adds a magnetically docked probe plus the macros and dock-safety logic to drive it. - Parts: KlickyProbe_v2 (print 2 — one is a spare), KlickyProbe_AB_mount_v2 + _holder, Probe_Dock_v2.1, Dock_mount_fixed_v2, Mount_* and Probe_* magnet press-fit jigs. - Magnets: 6×3 mm N35 — 4 in the probe, 3 in the toolhead mount, 1 in the dock. Press them in with the printed helpers; a crooked magnet is a probe that does not repeat. Glue is optional insurance. - Switch: Omron D2F-5 or D2F-5L with the lever removed. - Hardware: 2× M3×8 SHCS (mount to the AB carriage), 2× M3×20 (dock), 2× M5×10 + T-nuts (dock to the rear gantry rail). - Wiring: signal and ground only — the magnets carry the switch circuit. - Cost of switching later: the dock, the macros and a fresh probe calibration. Nothing you build in this chapter has to be undone. - src

If you later add the Decontaminator purge bucket you need Dock_sidemount_fixed_v2 + Dock_sidemount_left_v2 instead of Dock_mount_fixed_v2 — reprint then, not now.

Source: decision step — see Ch 07 Steps 07.34–07.37 · Video: More Extras! @0:30:00

Step 08.55 — Confirm the inductive probe fitted in Ch 07

What you're looking at: A confirmation pass over Ch 07's work rather than new assembly. The thing most worth re-checking is the tape: over-taping, especially near the bottom sensing face, is the usual reason an inductive probe will not trigger in Ch 13.

Parts: none.

Do: The probe was seated in probe_retainer_bracket and set in Ch 07 Steps 07.34–07.37, its lead left whole. Confirm the two M3×30 SHCS are tight, the tape intact, and the lead plugged into PROBE at 08.50.

check Check

The probe does not move under finger pressure, sits 6 mm ±1 mm below the plastic, is taped front and sides only, lead captive.

Helper: Reads the caliper aloud from the probe tip to the plastic; about 6 mm passes.

Caution

Rev D+ / LDO: if the tape is torn, re-wrap front and sides only — never the back or the bottom sensing face. Over-taping is the usual cause of a probe that will not trigger in Ch 13; remove a strip at a time before you suspect the board. src

Source: Voron manual p.144

Step 08.56 — The LDO nozzle probe is built in Ch 09 — not here

What you're looking at: The LDO nozzle probe is this kit's Z endstop: a sprung shaft on a microswitch, mounted on the frame, that the nozzle is driven down onto. Z zero is a measurement of the real nozzle tip, so changing a nozzle does not invalidate it.

Parts: none.

Do: Nothing. Leave the nozzle-probe bag closed and labelled for Ch 09. Its cable lands on the Leviathan's Z-ENDSTOP, never on the toolboard, so there is no toolhead-side work on it at all.

check Check

The nozzle-probe bag is still sealed and labelled for Ch 09.

Boundary: Ch 09 Steps 09.27–09.29 own the assembly and 09.30 the mounting (2× M3×25 SHCS into the bed extrusion's side slot); Ch 10 lands the cable. If LDO changes the assembly, correct Ch 09 and keep this pointer.

Caution

Rev D+ / LDO: LDO's nozzle probe replaces the official Voron endstop and uses LDO's own printed part — nozzle_probe.stl and nozzle_probe_ldo.stl are both on the do-not-print list because the part is supplied. src

Source: LDO wiring guide § Assembling the Nozzle Probe

pause Good stopping point · ~10 min since the last one

the probe decision is recorded, the inductive probe is confirmed on the carriage from Ch 07, and the nozzle-probe bag is still closed for Ch 09. The Klicky bag stays closed. Do not open either bag to "get ahead": the nozzle probe is built at its mounting location in Ch 09.

G — Mounting the toolhead

Step 08.57 — Read the handoff page and get help for the lift

What you're looking at: The hand-off page. Everything from Step 08.1 to here came out of the Stealthburner manual, because the printer manual carries no toolhead content of its own: p.146 points you there and p.147 expects you back.

Parts: none.

Do: Manual p.146–147 hands you to the Stealthburner manual and expects you back. You are back. The toolhead goes onto a belted gantry, so support the carriage with one hand and never let the toolhead hang on a half-started bolt.

check Check

Gantry parked mid-travel, carriage accessible from front and both sides, nothing else on the bed to drop a screwdriver onto.

Caution

Rev D+ / LDO: LDO's Build Notes mark p.146–147 as "Stealthburner + CW2 per the SB manual" — the printer manual contains no toolhead steps at all, only this pointer. Everything in this chapter came from the Stealthburner manual and LDO's own guides, which is why it is written out rather than transcribed. src

Source: Voron manual p.146

Step 08.58 — Hang the Clockwork 2 on the carriage, first bolt

What you're looking at: The extruder hooks onto the X carriage and hangs from it, held by two M3×8. Until the first one is snug the carriage is taking the weight through your hand, and a toolhead let go on a half-started bolt lands on the bed.

Parts:

  • reused: the CW2 assembly with its toolboard
  • M3×8 SHCS ×1

Do: Offer the CW2 up to the X carriage so its hooks engage the carriage and the extruder hangs plumb. Start one M3×8 SHCS in the accessible position and take it to snug.

check Check

The extruder is supported by the carriage, not by your hand, and it is not rotated.

Helper: Holds the carriage steady at mid-travel while you start the first bolt.

Source: SB manual p.64

Step 08.59 — Second CW2 bolt, through the front access hole

What you're looking at: The second bolt again comes from the front, through the access hole. With both in, extruder and carriage are one rigid body, which stops the toolhead rotating under belt acceleration and printing a smeared corner.

Parts:

  • M3×8 SHCS ×1

Do: The second bolt is reached from the front of the extruder through the access hole. Drive it, then tighten both to snug.

check Check

Push and pull the extruder: no movement relative to the carriage. Both bolts tight.

Source: SB manual p.65

Step 08.60 — Plug in the toolhead cable

What you're looking at: The umbilical is the single cable carrying USB data and 24 V to the toolhead, on an XT30 connector: two large power pins and two small signal pins in one shell. LDO's guide holds this connection until the extruder is on the carriage.

Parts:

  • toolhead cable, USB and 24 V, XT30(2+2) ×1

Do: With the extruder on the carriage, plug the toolhead cable into its XT30 connector, D+ / D− / GND / 24V. Do not plug the other end into anything yet; the USB adapter is wired in Ch 10.

check Check

Connector fully home and audibly seated. The free end is coiled and labelled, not dangling into the bed area.

Source: Nitehawk-SB V2 pinout

Step 08.61 — Slide the tool cartridge into place

What you're looking at: The tool cartridge slides up from below and its four stud heads drop into keyholes in the Clockwork 2, which makes the hotend a swappable unit rather than something bolted in. As it rises, the PTFE picks up the extruder's filament path.

Parts:

  • reused: the tool cartridge with its four M3×8 studs

Do: Lift the tool cartridge up into the toolhead from below so its four M3×8 bolt heads engage the CW2's keyholes, then let it settle. Feed the hotend's heater and thermistor leads up past the extruder as it goes.

check Check

The cartridge hangs squarely with the nozzle centred, and it cannot drop out. The PTFE has picked up the extruder's filament path.

Source: SB manual p.66

Step 08.62 — Fit the Stealthburner body and mate the board-to-board header

What you're looking at: The last act: the blue body closes onto the toolhead and the fan adapter's header mates with the toolboard's. That header is keyed and its gender was reversed from V1, so resistance means it is backwards, never that it needs more force.

Parts:

  • reused: the Stealthburner body with LEDs, fans and fan adapter
  • M3×25 SHCS ×2
  • M3×50 SHCS ×2

Do:

  1. Close the blue body onto the front of the toolhead, mating the fan adapter's header with the toolboard's. Keyed: resistance means backwards.
  2. Fit two M3×25 SHCS upper, two M3×50 SHCS through the bottom lobes, below the hotend fan.

check Check

No gap along the body-to-cartridge parting line, all four bolts snug, and the header fully seated.

Caution

Rev D+ / LDO: LDO's Rev D guide calls it a "2×4 header". On the V2 board it is 10-pin, 2×5, and both the gender and the keying changed from V1. Toolboard row order: tacho / tacho, the two fan drives, RGB (PD3) and 5 V, GND and NC, NC and 24 V. See Step 08.46 for the fan-pin conflict. src

Source: SB manual p.67 · Video: Part 5 @3:12:08 (differs: builds Afterburner + Clockwork 1; this kit is Stealthburner + Clockwork 2 + Revo HF · no toolboard — loom to the mainboard; this kit runs a Nitehawk-SB V2 on one USB+24 V umbilical)

Step 08.63 — Park the umbilical on the chain anchor — chain ties are Ch 10

What you're looking at: A service loop is deliberate slack: enough spare cable between the anchor and the chain that the umbilical is never in tension at either end of X travel. Wires held taut inside a moving drag chain work-harden and break.

Parts:

  • reused: the toolhead cable
  • consumable: zip tie, 3×150 mm ×1

Do: Lay the cable over the chain anchor from 08.25. Put one loose zip tie through its tab, loose enough that the cable still slides. Coil and label the free end. Chain ties are Ch 10 Steps 10.59 and 10.66.

check Check

The cable leaves over the anchor, not over a fan or belt; the coil hangs clear of the bed; nothing pulls the XT30.

Caution

Rev D+ / LDO: taut wires inside a drag chain fatigue and break — it is LDO's most repeated warning, and manual p.194–195 says the same. The cable must be pulled through the chain before the chain ends are mounted in Ch 10; doing it after means taking the chain apart (survey §5.2 W7).

Source: cable_chain_ties.jpg

Step 08.64 — Set the USB adapter aside with the right cover

What you're looking at: The USB adapter PCB is the frame-side end of the umbilical: 24 V goes in, and the toolhead cable comes out as a USB connection to the Pi. The V2 partial cover leaves one screw exposed so a ring lug can bolt to it.

Parts:

  • USB Adapter PCB ×1
  • NH Adapter Mount ×1
  • usb_adapter_mount_partial_cover.stl (Nitehawk-SB-V2 repo) ×1
  • M3×10 SHCS ×3 — from the kit, no 350 BOM row

Do: Stack the USB adapter into its mount base and close it with the V2 partial cover, not the full V1 usb_adapter_mount.stl cover. It exposes the point for the adapter-to-frame ground lead, Step 10.58. Bag the assembly for Ch 09.

check Check

One mounting screw head is exposed and reachable through the cover. The board's 24V IN terminal and its 4-pin Micro-Fit 3.0 umbilical socket are both accessible.

Helper: Checks that one screw head shows through the cover, then labels the bag for Ch 09.

Caution

Rev D+ / LDO: the Nitehawk-SB-V2 repo's STLs/ folder contains exactly one file, usb_adapter_mount_partial_cover.stl, and it is the cover this kit needs (print plan §0, correction #1). B07 also prints the V1 Nitehawk-SB/STLs/usb_adapter_mount.stl — for a spare base only. src

Source: usb_adapter_gnd.jpg

Step 08.65 — Return to the printer manual

What you're looking at: The return page. The toolhead is mechanically complete and every connector on the toolhead side is made. Everything below the deck is Ch 09 and Ch 10: the USB adapter, the 24 V feed, the Z endstop and the drag-chain runs.

Parts: none.

Do: Manual p.147 is the "return here to proceed" page. The toolhead is mechanically complete and every toolhead-side connector is made. Everything below the deck is Ch 09 and Ch 10.

check Check

Nothing on the toolhead is loose, nothing is left unplugged, and the umbilical's free end is coiled and labelled.

Source: Voron manual p.147

pause Good stopping point · ~35 min since the last one

the toolhead is on the carriage, the body is on with the board-to-board header mated, the umbilical is parked on the chain anchor with one loose tie and its free end is coiled and labelled. This is the end of the hands-on work in this chapter. Do not apply power: Checkpoint 08 below is a cold bench test and it is the last cheap chance to find a toolhead fault.

Checkpoint 08 — bench test before anything is powered

Do all of this with the printer unplugged. It is the last chance to find a toolhead fault cheaply; after Ch 10 the bay is closed and after Ch 13 a wiring error costs a component.

  • Heater resistance. Across the two HE0 ferrules: a low, stable, non-zero reading. A 60 W 24 V Revo HF cartridge is roughly 9.6 Ω (24²/60); anything near 0 Ω is a short and anything open is a broken lead. (verify against the value E3D prints on your cartridge)
  • Heater isolation. No continuity between either heater lead and the heatsink, the nozzle, the frame, or the toolboard GND pad.
  • Thermistor at room temperature. Across the TH0 pigtail: about 100 kΩ at 25 °C for the Semitec 104NT-4-R025H42G. Warm the HeaterCore with your fingers and watch the resistance fall — an NTC that rises is the wrong part or a bad connection.
  • Probe. Continuity from each PROBE pin to the matching probe wire; no continuity between 24V and GND.
  • LED chain. No short between 5 V and GND at the chain connector; continuity along the chain in the order logo → right → left.
  • Fan orientation, checked visually. The hotend fan's moulded arrow points into the heatsink and its wires exit at the top. The 5015 discharges down into the ducts. Both impellers spin freely with a finger flick and no rub. Powered spin-up is confirmed in Ch 13 Verify Fans.
  • Fan-voltage jumpers. V_HEF and V_PCF both on 24 V, nothing cut, nothing bridged to 5 V.
  • Fan ports. Axial on P2, blower on P4, LEDs on P3. If the wrong fan spins in Ch 13, fix it in the config, not by re-crimping — see Common mistakes.
  • Board-to-board header fully seated, SB front snapped on with no gap at the parting line.
  • Mechanical. Extruder shaft turns freely by hand; gear mesh has a faint play; tension arm swings; latch closes; filament runs from the CW2 inlet through the PTFE to the nozzle with no catch.
  • Probe height still ~6 mm below the plastic and the insulation intact, front and sides only — set in Ch 07 Steps 07.34–07.37, re-checked at Step 08.55.
  • Cable discipline. Run X to both extremes by hand — the parked umbilical never goes taut, nothing rubs a belt, nothing touches the nozzle. The secondary USB port is still reachable. (Chain slack and the chain ties are Ch 10 Steps 10.59 and 10.66.)
  • The toolboard-to-motor ground wire (Steps 08.43 and 08.53) is fitted per LDO's ESD Hardening section, or — if the kit is missing the grounding cables — logged as an unanswered #ldo_motors question. Do not let Ch 10 close the bay with this unresolved.
Revali passing a gate
You built a complete toolhead, wired and hanging on the X carriage. 10 gummy worms.

Common mistakes

  • Assembling before the insert pass. A missed insert in the CW2 main body or motor plate means stripping the extruder back to bare plastic and re-melting brass into a part that already has a bearing and a gear train in it. Do Steps 08.3–08.7 first, every time.
  • Forcing a JST-PH2.0 plug into the wrong header. The PH2.0 bodies on PROBE, TH0, CT and XY ENDSTOP are small and similar, and the Rev D guide's XH2.5 text sends people looking for the wrong connector. Read the silkscreen before every insertion.
  • Pressing the board-to-board header home when it will not go. The V2 interface is keyed and gender-reversed against every Rev D photo. If it resists, it is backwards. Pressing harder bends pins and the damage is not visible once the body is on.
  • Overtightening the tension-arm or motor-plate bolts. The tension arm's M3×25 is a hinge pin; torque it and the extruder cannot tension filament. The motor plate's M3×25 pair will crack the main body if you keep turning — the manual's own advice is to bin the part and reprint.
  • Skipping the strain-relief bend on the Revo. If the strain relief is not bent clear, the nozzle cannot be fully hand-tightened into the heatsink, and you get a molten-plastic leak at the first hot print.
  • Building Klicky because the parts are on the bench. They are printed as a future option. The kit's config, wiring guide and pre-terminated cable are all for the inductive probe; mixing the two costs you a probe recalibration and a set of macros you do not have yet.

Next

Ch 09 — Electronics bay. DIN rails, the Leviathan and its voltage-selection jumpers, the Pi, and the USB adapter you bagged in Step 08.64 — including the frame-side leg of the grounding scheme.